Friday, 10 May 2013

Retraining the ex-racehorse to go Eventing



Retraining the ex-racehorse, coming from Australia, really is something I feel qualified to talk about as in my day the only chance we had of a horse for competition was an ex-racer. We had to retrain them for everything: showing, eventing, show jumping and dressage. There is no doubt the ex-racehorse can be much more flighty and sensitive than the average warmblood or sport horse etc but plenty of these breeds also have their tension issues as well, so in my opinion the training basics are still the same.
More often than not when acquiring our ex-racer we sadly have to put them back together again. Often they are in poor condition, having come out of training and been race fit, on lots of hard feed – then suddenly it all stops, and very quickly they can just look like skin and bone. Also the feet are usually in need of a lot of attention. The feeding can be a problem as there is no doubt some thoroughbreds are indeed fussy feeders. Gradually introduce lots of little and often feeds that will help you to put the calories into them, to turn condition into muscle. Feeding is a whole other article, but suffice to say as many little and often feeds of non-heating but conditioning food the better.
Many people buying an ex-racer have not experienced their flightiness and spookiness before. It?s important in the training, especially in the beginning, not to restrict the ex-racehorse too much, as it?s in their blood to go forward, and in the racing stables 90% of their work is forward and fast. Rather than hold them back in the arena when they want to go faster and faster, within reason keep control but try to do lots of small circles and bends as this always helps break the tension. Lots of small walk circles and serpentine loops will help the ex-racer relax and walk correctly as sadly many of them have learnt to jog. The trot will need to learn how to relax and swing, so again lots of bending lines and small circles – slowing down too much can create more tension, especially in canter.
A lot of riders will be surprised at the power in an ex-racehorse?s canter and try to hold it back, but they are not used to this so try to allow the canter forward and not hold them back too much. Lots of trot-canter transitions are the key here, and again they will not be used to having to do any sort of quality trot after the canter so lots of bending lines and circles to restore suppleness in the trot and then, when ready, try the canter again. This all takes time but gradually he will learn not to try and go faster and faster in the canter, and the trot will slowly become more supple as well.
I think that one of the hardest things with an ex-racer is taking him out in company. All your training will seem like it has gone into outer space! The feeling of him on grass, other horses, loud speakers etc all bring back racing memories – this is the hardest thing to overcome but you will. It?s difficult with fuel prices etc but if at all possible (and permission has been granted), go to a few competitions without competing, and just work him, in taking care to avoid the ‘real’ competitors. Take him back to the lorry/trailer, settle him down with hay and water and perhaps later on take him out and work again. He will learn life is not all about galloping as soon as he hits the grass.
Personally I think that ex-racers can make fantastic event horses. ‘The Thomas’ and ‘Bakala Beaver’ were two of my mounts who made very successful transitions from the race track to eventing.  They both competed successfully at 2 and 3 star eventing, and Bakala Beaver went on to compete at Prix St George , and trained through to Intermediaire level dressage when his eventing days were over.

Words: Amanda Brewer

Saturday, 4 May 2013

Simple Guide to Transforming Your EX-Race Horse Into a Hunter/Jumper


Ex-Race Horse Training Tips

Retraining your Off-The-Track Thoroughbred is a challenging and rewarding endeavor. It is basically guaranteed that you will have days, especially in the beginning, that you will think to yourself, "I am selling this horse, there is no way he/she will ever make a suitable Hunter/Jumper show horse." I have had those days myself and will share some of those experiences with you. I want to stress the importance of patience. This can not be taken lightly. You will need to have unending patience with your Thoroughbred, it will be taxing at times. Yet while it is an enormous amount of work and added stress the rewards are boundless. The Thoroughbred's inherit love, bond and willingness to perform for his/her human counterpart is unmatchable and unbelievable.
The very first step and possibly the single most important step in your re-training program will be to gain your horse's TRUST. Many TB's find this difficult and it may prove to be your first stumbling point in your new partnership with your TB. To gain the trust of your TB you will need to think like a TB, which is not the same thinking as a non-OTTB horse. TB's generally will learn more from praise than punishment and will need to have that praise often and exaggeratedly expressed. Feed into the TB's own desire to please. This is extremely important in building a partnership with your new Hunter/Jumper! For the most part a stern "NO" will be enough to let your Thoroughbred know a behaviour is unacceptable or not what was being asked of him. Remember, trust is not a right, it must be earned, and in a split second it can be lost. Be very sensitive to your horse's emotions. Thoroughbreds are sensitive horses and an overly harsh command or punishment for undesired behaviour can set you back months in terms of trust. While you cannot allow bad behaviour and must maintain the superior/subordinate relationship, you will need to always consider that your overall goal is to gain trust and react appropriately with that in mind. There must be a balance between trust building and maintaining the proper relationship status with your horse. It can be difficult to achieve, and thus why this step can prove to be challenging for some owners and horses. Trust building will start from the moment you gain ownership of your ex-race horse.
After you own your ex-race horse the first step in retraining your TB is providing sufficient down time (A.K.A turned out to pasture with no training, other than trust building, in progress) directly proportionate to the length of time the horse was used as a race horse. The majority of this article will pertain to retaining TB's that raced for greater than 2 years. I would recommend six months minimum and up to one year based on racing history and mental state of the animal in question. Some TB's will need more or less time depending on temperament. This step is difficult for many people as it requires patience in waiting long periods of time without any tangible results. I assure my readers this step is invaluable in the long term training program.

Once you are certain your horse has had sufficient pasture time, it is time to start with back to the basics type trainings. Most TB's do not have developed ground manners expected from a "show horse" and therefore you will need to literally start from the ground up. Starting with leading your TB from the pasture to the box in an orderly fashion, with him respecting your space and authority. As race horses are used to being in a state of hyper activity at all times and are high energy animals this seemly simple step that does not even require mounting can be challenging right out of the pasture gate. Do not move forward with the training until this step is mastered. You are, in addition to teaching your horse ground manners, re-framing your horse's mind for how he will interact with you and who is "The Boss". This will prove to be very important when the time to mount your steed finally comes.
Now that your horse has learned not to push, pull, or stop to graze on the lead, and is able to stand quietly in the cross-ties, it is time to consider a mounted training program. This step is always best left to the professionals and there are numerous Hunter/Jumper barns that specialize in retraining the TB's. Even if you have experience in riding green, barely broke horses, the TB can still be a challenge and can be dangerous if attempted by someone who is not ready for the task.
You will want to use a small arena that is free of distractions and obvious "horse eating monsters" as it is likely that your TB will be ready to spook at just about anything at this point. If possible I recommend using a sixty foot round pen inside of an indoor arena.
Additionally I recommend lounging your horse in the training space once per day until he is able to go around nicely on the lounge line without acting spooky or nervous. This could be one time for some and three weeks for another, again it will depend on each individuals personality. I would continue to lounge prior to mounting through out the entire re-training program.
Start slow, this will be a phrase repeated frequently through out this article, slow, steady and consistent are all important elements needed to successfully re-train your good friend and new Hunting partner.
Mount and walk. Repeat. Sounds easy in print. In practice, may not be as easy as it sounds. Remember Race horses are led to and from the race track and practice track so they are not accustomed to waking on their own. Your TB is likely to be high energy and may try to gallop from the moment you get on. Your goal is to re-frame his mind set that slow is the pace you want him to go and that will be the polar opposite of what he has been taught in the past. Practice mounting and walking in the small designated arena for as long as it takes, until your new mount is able to be mounted and walk the rail without trying to "run away with you". By taking your time and mastering each gait before moving on to the next you are laying the ground work!
Now that you are walking around the arena with some confidence, add bending to your walking routine. Bending will be a new and confusing concept and will take a long time to master, so it is important to start training bending at this stage of the re-training program. Continue to incorporate bending into the training at each gait as they are added. Walking figure eights while bending is a good technique to use to teach bending and break up the monotony of walking the arena.
It is important to note that with a Thoroughbred you can not attempt to trot or gallop off excess energy. Your Hot blooded Thoroughbred will not run out of steam! In fact, attempting to gallop off excess energy in a Thoroughbred will only create additional energy and the more you attempt to gallop it off the more energy he will create!
When you are ready to move onto the trot, strive for a slow sitting trot. Sitting trot will reinforce the slow gaited mind set. You will now simply, mount, walk, trot, walk, repeat. Once you and your horse have seemingly mastered this, start adding halts to the regimen. Again this may prove to be harder in practice than in print and takes a lot of patience to achieve. Your TB is most likely not accustomed to waiting for anything especially not while mounted. Reward "big time" when he shows improvement in this step.
Adding ground poles will improve your horses knowledge of where his feet and legs are located and their spacial reference to one another. This will help improve balance and start the initial ground work for jumping.
Cantering will most likely be the hardest gait to get under control. Expect his first days at cantering to be fast. He has always been told to run, as a race horse even on practice days when they are not pushed to full speed they are still galloped at a speed greater than that which we will ask in the Hunter ring. Further Expect that your TB may not be watching where is he headed and may run into walls if he is not steered around the corner of the arena (one reason why I recommended the round pen).
Begin your canter departures from the trot. This will be different than the old usual departure to the gallop which was usually from a stand still. Keep your cantering limited to short amounts and keep them in a 20 meter circle or as close to it as possible. This will aid in keeping him from blasting off into a full blown gallop. Reward greatly every time he demonstrates a nice canter departure and canter transition to the trot and back down to the walk.
Now that you have incorporated the three main gaits into your training program, you will want to just spend a lot of time putting "miles" on him. Use your riding time to practice a lot of transitions, and make sure to mix it up, don't always ask for the canter at the same point in the arena or ask for the downward transition to the walk at the same point in the arena or after the same amount of strides. Spend time going from walk to trot to walk to trot to canter to trot etc.
Be sure to exercise your TB in both directions equally. You will likely find that he is faster on the left lead as well as more comfortable on the left lead at the canter. This is because while race horses are exercised in both directions, races are nearly always counter-clock wise or left lead. You may also find that he feels a bit out of sorts on the right lead and you may have more difficulty getting him to pick up the right lead consistently.
The steps in this article from the point after the pasture rest to the point where you feel your TB is ready to start learning more advanced moves is probably a year or more. Once you have accomplished this you are ready to start your jumping training program! Stay focused, stay patient, and good luck.

Monday, 29 April 2013

Feeding the Ex-Racehorse


Typical Racehorse Diet

A racehorse in training will typically be used to a diet which is: 
  • High Energy - high cereal/starch content; often oat based; 7kgs+ concentrates per day.
  • Low Fibre - minimal hay/haylage; little or no turnout; unlikely to have had chaffs/beet added to their feeds.
This diet can lead to associated clinical problems such as ulcers and colic.


New Diet Decisions
The ex-racehorse requires a balanced diet which provides the correct balance of energy, protein, vitamins and minerals needed for health and performance.

You will need to feed according to:

  • Body Condition
  • Workload
  • Temperament
  • Clinical issues
Body Condition
Body Condition Scoring is a visual hands-on method to evaluate body fat. It evaluates the amount of fat covering areas of the neck, withers, down the back, over the ribs and behind the shoulders. Regular evaluation allows for feeding and exercise regimes to be adjusted appropriately.
Poor condition score 1-3
A horse with a poor condition score will: 
  • Have an underdeveloped top line with an angular appearance.
  • Be hollow through the quarters and have an angular appearance.
  • Have a slight covering of flesh over the hips and ribs.
Thoroughbreds do not have to be skinny.

Moderate condition score 4-6
A horse with a moderate condition score will have:
  • A well muscled top line.
  • Shoulders and a neck that blends smoothly into the body.
  • Ribs which are not easily distinguishable but can be felt.
Body condition '5' is desirable.



Workload
Be realistic about the amount of work your horse is doing.
  • Light - quiet hacking 1-3 times a week, light schooling and occasional competition.
  • Moderate - daily hacking 1-2 hours, 30-60 minutes schooling, Riding Club competition.
  • Hard - intense training sessions, regular competitions.

Energy Sources

There are three main categories:

  • Fibre (Insoluble Carbohydrates)
  • Cereals - starches and sugars (Soluble Carbohdrates)
  • Fats & Oils
A combination of all three will meet your horse’s energy requirements more easily than feeding fibre and cereals alone. Protein is not an efficient energy source and therefore not a primary energy source.

Fibre (slow release energy = non-heating)
Digestion occurs by microbial fermentation in the hind gut. Fibre is essential for gut health as it maintains regular bowl movement, helps to push out excess gas and counteracts acidity throughout the digestive tract. A large percentage of racehorses suffer from gastric ulcers due to lack of fibre.
Typically an ex-racehorse should have:

  • Minimum 1% of bodyweight of hay per day e.g. 500 kg horse requires an absolute minimum of 5kg of hay per day. However it is preferable to feed to appetite i.e. provide a constant supply of hay/haylage - particularly for those horses who are underweight and struggle to maintain a healthy body condition. A constant supply of fibre helps satisfy the psychological need to chew (trickle feeders) and acts as; a reservoir for fluid and electrolytes; a central heating system and; contains valuable nutrients. Better quality forage (high value – soft, leafy, harvested early rather than coarse and stalky hay which is most likely to have been harvested late) will result in less reliance on concentrates for calories/energy.
  • Additional fibre sources include chaffs, sugar beet and super fibres eg. soya hulls. Alfalfa which is rich in quality protein and can be useful to compensate for low nutritional value hay.
Cereals (quick release energy = heating)
Higher levels of starch are predominantly found in cereals. Starch is broken down by enzymes in the small intestine resulting in a fast release of energy. Energy is absorbed into the bloodstream as glucose and stored in muscles and the liver as glycogen.
If your horse is doing fast work, muscles utilise energy without O2 (anaerobically). As fat cannot be broken down anaerobically the primary energy source during fast work is glycogen i.e. a racehorse requires a higher proportion in the diet in order to be able to gallop successfully.
If your horses is doing slower work (walk, trot, slow canter) the muscles use fat and glycogen in the presence of O2 (aerobically). Fibre digestion provides a further source of slow release energy thus the combination of all three energy sources works well.

Fats & Oils (slow release energy = non-heating)
Fats and oils are digested in the small intestine producing a slow release of energy. They contain 2-3 times more energy per kg than cereals.
Straight oil can lead to palatability problems and anti-oxidant supplementation is required to avoid the risk of muscle related problems such as tying-up. Hence, pelleted oil supplements are far more practical and appealing.

Digestive Enhancers

Digestive enhancers such as Baileys ‘Digest Plus’ aid digestion and encourage weight gain. There are three types, all of which have slightly different functions.

  • Probiotics – contain live bacteria; flood the gut with beneficial ‘friendly’ bacteria and; stops harmful species of bacteria becoming established (competitive exclusion).
  • Yeast – increases the number of beneficial bacteria and stimulates fibre-digesting bacteria making fibre digestion more efficient. It needs to supplied in the diet continuously as it requires oxygen to live and the horse’s hind gut is largely anaerobic.
  • Prebiotics – do not contain live organisms and provide a food source for beneficial bacteria. They mop up pathogenic species of bacteria and promote healthy gut function.

General Tips
  • As with any adjustment in feeding, changes should be made gradually so as to keep the risk of digestive upsets to a minimum. As a guide a period of 7 – 10 days should be taken to gradually remove the old diet and replace with the new.
  • Feed concentrates little and often, ideally 3 feeds per day or 2 minimum. Feed at regular intervals.
  • Feed hay/haylage to appetite i.e. provide a constant supply to encourage trickle feeding and optimise gut health.
  • Feed no more than 1.8kg (4lbs) of concentrates per meal – the horse cannot physically digest more than this amount in one go. 1 round ‘Stubbs’ scoop holds approximately 1.8kg cubes, 1.3kg mix and 500g chaff.
  • Remember calories and energy are the same. Source calories from the least heating sources if your horse is prone to excitable behaviour.
  • Feed high fibre diets and if more calories required provide high oil diets. Avoid traditional cereals eg. oats, barley, wheat and maize. Use cubes as generally lower in starch.
  • Add fats and oils to existing ration by adding straight oil or use a pelleted high oil supplement such as the Baileys Outshine containing a blend of oils with the correct balance of Omega 3 & 6.
  • Add a digestive enhancer
With attention to detail and a little care in the early stages, there is no reason why your ex-racehorse shouldn’t thrive on a diet where the ratio of forage to concentrates is kept in a healthy balance. If you are unsure of the right approach for your ex-racehorse, feed company helplines can offer practical advice and help you explore your options. Once settled into their new life, most thoroughbreds simply need treating as any other individual horse and some even become laid back good doers!






Case Studies

1.  Tib - Working horse/low energy diet

No.2 Working Horse & Pony Cubes + Lo-Cal balancer
During the winter, Tib looks and works well on the recommended amount of 2 scoops of Working Horse & Pony Cubes (8lb/3.6kg per day) but when the spring grass comes through, he doesn’t need as many calories so his owner cuts it back to 1 or 1½ scoops (4 – 6lb/1.8 – 2.7kg) but adds 1 – 2 mugs ( ½ - 1 lb/225 – 450 grams) of Lo-Cal balancer. The Lo-Cal provides the additional nutrients which are lost by cutting back the hard feed but without adding extra calories.

2.  Monty - Leisure Horse/Good-doer

Lo-Cal balancer
Monty has access to excellent grazing in the summer and good haylage in the winter and, as his workload is relatively low, maintains his body condition well on the calories these provide. To help build and maintain muscle tone and support health and well being, Monty gets just 3 mugs (1 ½lb/675g) of Lo-Cal balancer per day. This supplies the quality protein he needs to build muscle tissue plus a balance of vitamins and minerals to support his work along with healthy hooves and a shiny coat.


3.  Bob - Pre Novice Eventer/Fit, Rounded and Ride-able

No.4 Top Line Conditioning Cubes
Bob gets ad lib haylage plus 2 to 2½ Stubbs scoops (8 – 10lb/3.6 – 4.5kg) of No.4 Top Line Conditioning Cubes divided into two or three feeds, depending on how long he spends in the field. In light to moderate work all winter, this has helped him build body and muscle whilst easily fuelling and supporting his work.

4.  Samantha - Polo Pony/Low Starch Diet

No.6 All-Round Endurance Mix + Outshine high oil supplement
Samantha’s owners were advised to keep her starch intake down and maintain a fully balanced diet to support muscle function and integrity. She gets ad lib hay plus 3 scoops (8 – 8½lb/4kg) of No.6 All-Round Endurance Mix which provides a blend of energy sources but is particularly high in oil (10%) and fibre (12%). This also supplies all the other nutrients she needs to support performance but if she needs extra calories to boost condition, Samantha gets 2 to 4 mugs (1 – 2lbs/0.45 – 1kg) of Baileys Outshine high oil supplement in addition to her mix.


Saturday, 27 April 2013

Initial Considerations of getting an Ex Race Horse



No-one will question your wonderful intention of providing an ex-racehorse with a loving, caring home, but you may find yourself in situations that you have not met with before. We have outlined below some key points to help you with your ex-racehorse.

Be realistic about your ability and experience and don't be afraid to seek help and advice rather than become anxious and upset if something occurs you are not sure about.
Take the time to read the section about the life of a horse in training so you can gain a better understanding of why you may encounter certain difficulties at some point.
Generally an ex-racehorse is good to load, stands for the farrier and has good stable manners. Usually they are also very good to clip but some may be a bit fidgety, mainly due to the thoroughbred being thin skinned and more sensitive. 
Although the horse is used to being ridden it will not really have any idea about conventional riding techniques.
It probably won't stand still for you to mount; some will rear up a little if you try and stop them from walking away. This is because lads/lasses and jockeys are more often than not legged up whilst the horse is walking. Some will stand provided someone holds them. 
The horse may not be used to anyone riding with long stirrups so legs draped around its sides is something it will have to become accustomed to.  
The horse may not have experienced a conventional (general purpose) saddle on its back before so such a saddle will feel very different particularly in terms of weight.
Your braking system could well be limited or even non-existent especially in open spaces; and when you shorten up the reins and undoubtedly, although probably unintentionally, incline yourself forward, you are actually giving cues to go faster!
The horse will not know anything about contact so when you pick up the reins, the head/neck will invariably go up and out rather than low and rounded. You may also experience head tossing and snatching at the bit. Many horses may well teeth grind too.
Physically the horse will be "rigid" – not supple - but this is only because of the type of work a racehorse receives.  
The horse will be used to riding out in company which means that when venturing out alone, you could encounter problems in relation to insecurity and nervousness. Riding in company can also present its own issues as being in a group will be associated with work i.e. a training gallop. 
It is unlikely the horse will have travelled in a trailer before.
The horse will not be accustomed to being tied up outside his stable so is likely to fidget, become anxious and even try to break free.
The horse is unlikely to understand aids be it hands, leg, seat, weight. Whilst horses do naturally respond to the shift in weight of a rider, bear in mind that when in training most of the time the rider has taken their weight out of the saddle completely. 
The horse shown in the photograph is typical of ex-racehorses who do not understand the aids to lower their heads coupled with the fact that tight underside of neck muscles make it harder for the horse to comply so the horse doesn't think he can lower his head in an attempt to comply with the rider's request. However before progressing in cases like this one where the horse is clearly being that bit more obstinate, it is important to rule out any reasons which may be the cause or contributing to such head carriage (i.e hollowing) such as an ill-fitting saddle, inappropriate bit or a physical problem with the horse such as a sore back.  This horse had a pelvic rotation, painful sacroiliac joint coupled with a generally weak frame. He needs more ground work to develop his strength before ridden work is progressed.

 


Management Considerations

Whilst an increasing number of racehorses do now get turned out, it won't be for hours at a time so all day turnout will be a new experience. 24/7 turnout will become achievable if you so wish, though not in the early stages so access to stabling is essential. That also means that kitting out your new charge with a cosy, warm, waterproof turnout rug complete with snuggy neck cover could actually alarm him as he adjusts to the restrictions such rugs impose. Remember that thoroughbreds are thin skinned so whereas previously you may not have rugged-up a horse in the stable, this may now be likely so here starts the accumulation of a new equine wardrobe! 
Life for the horse in training is based on strict routine and regime. And whilst used to a very active lifestyle with plenty going on in the yard that doesn't necessarily equate to a noisy environment.  Many yards still have a couple of hours complete peace and quiet in the afternoons to enable horses to rest. 
Remember that life in a racing yard is invariably busy and time is short especially in the larger ones, so your new horse may not be used to receiving the huge amounts of affection you now wish to shower it with and may well actually shun you to start with. Don't take this personally - just give him time to adjust. The vast majority of people report how wonderfully affectionate and loving their horses are and in fact it is often that side of their nature which spurs owners on to resolving riding issues which, in other circumstances, would result in the horse being passed/sold on.
The thoroughbred is very sensitive and quick minded so is often more prone to exhibiting signs of stress than other breeds of horse particularly if boredom sets in. These horses can also more easily become flustered when they do not understand what is being asked of them.
Remember the day the horse leaves the training yard its life is tipped upside down so that is when any behavioural or stress-related symptoms will kick in. So do give your new horse time to adjust to its new lifestyle.

 
Saddlery

Saddle

Although the horse newly out of training will be fit and muscled up, the musculature will be very different to that of a riding horse. Due to the life-style change and as re-schooling progresses the horse's body shape is going to alter - by just how much will depend entirely on the manner of schooling work done. This means that in the first few months you will need the services of a reputable saddle fitter on more than one occasion as muscle development takes place.

Thoroughbreds backs are very sensitive so however well fitted your saddle is, you will need to use a numnah underneath, not a thick one but one that provides good concussion absorption. Be mindful that thoroughbreds can become niggled if they get sweaty particularly in the saddle region, so using sheepskin numnahs is not always an option for every horse. These horses are also usually used to girths with elastic in.

Bit

One of the most common difficulties is finding a suitable bit and this can be quite challenging as the racehorse doesn't often have a "mouth". So don't be alarmed if you struggle to find a bit that your horse is comfortable with and responds to as it may well take several bit changes, over a period of time, until you find the right one. Most racehorses have been ridden in just a loose ring snaffle whilst in training (pictured).

Remember your horse probably doesn't have a concept of contact and coming on to the bit - you have to teach him all that! Going bitless is not always an option either especially in the early days when the horse doesn't have a comprehension of the other aids which of course is very important when riding without a bit.


^ Back to top

So you have decided that an ex-racehorse is for your - remember:



Patience is the key. You must remain calm but confident at all times whatever behaviour is thrown at you. The sharp-minded thoroughbred will soon pick up on any deficiencies you exhibit in that department.

Not every horse is a challenge and some adapt readily and easily whilst others just need a little more time. Unfortunately it must be acknowledged that a few horses never really make the adjustment from racehorse to riding horse in that they always retain a degree of unpredictability – but then no horse's behaviour can ever be 100% guaranteed can it?

As with any horse and any situation there is no hard and fast rules and there are always exceptions. We advise anyone who would like to take on an ex-racehorse to talk to others that have done so and listen to their experiences so that you are fully versed in what to expect.

Once your new horse has settled into his new surroundings, the work really starts. It is a wonderful journey, sometimes challenging, demanding and possibly with stressful moments - but no worse than with any other new horse particularly a youngster. It is all well worth it in the end. Have fun!!


http://www.ror.org.uk/care_exracehorse.htm

Thursday, 28 February 2013

Tips to School the Ex-Racehorse


The secret of successfully schooling an ex-racehorse is patience and the ability to be very flexible in your approach. While repetition is required in order to make improvements and positive progress, it is important that schooling sessions are interesting and stimulating for any horses - but this is paramount particularly in the early stages of re-training as the thoroughbred is active minded and needs to be kept forward thinking.  So this means not continually flogging away at one particular exercise but varying what you are doing.

Keep it short

Schooling sessions should be kept short not only to take account of an unbalanced, stiff horse but also one that needs time to adjust and learn what is required of him. You don’t want to sour him before you have hardly got started! It will often seem like you take six steps forwards and seven back, but give yourself and your horse chance to build your relationship.

Be clear be light

Aids should be exaggerated so the horse is on the receiving end of very clear signalling to help him learn and understand what is being asked of him. Rider position is important so no slouching, place the legs down the girth (not drawn back) – and no riding too short - as this not only tips rider weight forward putting a horse on to its forehand but also does not allow the rider to use the leg effectively. A light seat is important so that the horse can lift his back once he has begun to engage his abdominal muscles. If your horse is not responding, chances are you are not making your instructions clear or are giving conflicting signalling. Too many riders drive downwards with their seat which actually blocks or even stops a horse; check you are not one of these.

Wide not backwards

The rider should hold their hands low and very wide apart (at least six inches away from the neck) as this encourages the horse to lower his head and seek the bit; while the hand can be restraining so that the horse learns not to keep thrusting his head forwards or up to evade At no time should there be a backwards pull on the reins, nor any see-sawing of the bit in an attempt to lower the head. 

Keep it interesting

Endless working around the outside of the arena achieves nothing but by incorporating lots of loops and changes of rein, serpentines, tear drops and circles, not only are you working the diagonals evenly and stretching the muscles equally on both sides of the body, but you are working on improving balance, suppleness, co-ordination and co-operation as well as keeping training sessions interesting by not letting the horse have the chance of anticipating what is coming next. With regard to circles, a couple at a time is plenty as in the early days your horse will be learning to balance himself in an unfamiliar way but is least equipped to do so due to lack of suppleness and muscle; keep circles large, not less than 25m.

Transitions, poles and lateral work

Don’t forget about transitions. Downwards ones need to be very progressive, until your horse begins to learn to step under with his hind leg, but you can be more demanding with the upwards ones – leg on means "do something now”.
Leg yielding is an invaluable exercise to help encourage use of the hind leg as well as improving suppleness and teaching the horse to move away from the rider’s leg when requested to do so.  It is often easier to introduce leg yielding on a circle rather than on a straight line as a horse naturally wants to move outwards.  Being on a circle also affords the rider more say in what is happening.
While putting down a row of trotting poles may serve to excite your horse or even un-nerve him – some do get flustered by poles in the early days – laying single or double poles around the school, particularly on corners, helps maintains interest, promotes joint flexion and improves the stride. Placing a barrel, or similar, here and there in the school helps both horse and rider with turns and circles.
Most people are in too much of a rush to get canter work underway. A lob around the school to help work off excess energy is fine, but the racehorse has to learn all about using his back in order to canter smoothly within an enclosed space, let alone cantering slowly. Canter, of course, is the pace he knows all about and this is where he can gain the upper hand. Far better to concentrate on the trot work  – encouraging the seeking and acceptance of the contact, a lowering and stretching forwards of the neck which helps to build the all-important top line muscles which then allows the development of engagement.  
For horses that appear to be struggling, ground work is of great benefit as the horse can learn without having to cope with the weight of a rider.
Training is challenging and there are times when you will undoubtedly feel very frustrated and that is the time to stop, do something your horse finds easy and call it a day, as you will only serve to compound your own feelings as well as build tension in your horse. As said above, repetition is the only way to gain improvement in anything that you do, but done in such a way that your horse doesn’t realise he keeps coming back to the same exercise – keep him guessing.
If you have any particular issues with your horse, then please contact the RoR Helpline for advice or contact Fred and Rowena Cook of Equine Management and Training www.equinetraining.co.uk. Their book Re-Educating Racehorses – A Life After Racing is available now. 
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